KONAMI (2008-2013)

There appear to be two main variants of the jubeat casing: a pre-L44 build (I44, J44, etc...) and an L44-build cabinet.

jubeat before L44 used a P3IO for its input, but switched to a P4IO with L44.

Cabinets that were built before L44 had their P3IO with a JAMMA edge connector, which allowed for an easy upgrade to the P4IO with L44 upgrade kit.

Cabinets that were built for L44 don't have an edge connector, and have the P4IO built into the casing.

Known Hardware🔗

Bemani PC (ADE-6291)

  • Latest revision cabinets using Windows 7 Embedded run this board.

Bemani PC (ADE-704A)

  • jubeat Qubell (L44)
  • jubeat clan (L44)
  • jubeat festo (L44).
  • jubeat prop (L44)
  • jubeat saucer (fulfill) (L44)

Bemani PC Type 3 (Variant C)

  • jubeat copious (APPEND)
  • jubeat knit (APPEND)
  • jubeat ripples (APPEND)

Known Parts🔗

Images and Diagrams🔗

No images currently added.

Repair Manuals🔗

No manuals currently added.

Repair Tips🔗

Disassembling the Front Panel 🔗

In order to clean dirt and spills, as well as to repair misfiring panels and replace broken sensors, you will need to disassemble the front panel. This is probably one of the worst games to disassemble in terms of how complicated it is to get to the serviceable parts.

First, you will want to unscrew and remove the decorative side panels. There should be two screws on the front of the cab on each side, two on back on each side, and two near the control panel on each side. This shows the screw location for the right side panel control panel screws:

Once you have both of these panels off, you will want to remove the front decorative panel and the decorative panel in the center of the screen. Both should have two screws:

Now that the decorative panels are off, you should have access to the wiring underneath. You can unplug the wires from the four connectors now. Note that you can do this with the cabinet running. I do so with the test screen up so I can reattach and test repairs before fully reassembling. Once the connectors have been unplugged (four on each side), three screws on the top and three screws on the bottom of the assembly hold it in. Unscrew them:

You should be able to remove the whole assembly at this point. Flip it over. If there is a protective rubber cover, remove it at this point. You should have a panel that looks similar to the following:

Now that you have access to this, the first thing you need to remove is the center brace. This secures the center part of each of the 8 sensor boards. Remove the three nuts that hold it down. Now is a good time to remove the other nuts holding down various parts of the circuit board. Do not remove the two nuts on the very top and two nuts on the very bottom of the assembly. These hold the front decorative plate to the back, and if you remove them all of the panels and rubbers will fall out everywhere and you will be so sad. Your panel should look like this now:

Removing each sensor board is as simple as removing the four screws that hold it. A detail of one sensor board with the four screws that hold it is shown below. Note that if you are trying to repair a single panel, you only need to remove the circuit that covers it and its neighbor.

Once you remove the circuit board, the rubbers that make contact with the PCB will be exposed. Make sure that none of them are broken or dirty. Sometimes the actual plunger piece can get torn off and fall into the cabinet or get bent. Replace these rubbers with new ones if this happens. Failing to do so can cause a misfiring or sticking panel.

At this point, you can clean the PCBs and rubbers in order to prolong their life and replace any that have broken. Note that if you are cleaning the rubbers themselves, do not use alcohol. This dries out the carbon contact and causes brittleness. Simply use warm water on a q-tip to swab them clean. On the PCB, you can clean with a q-tip and alcohol. If you have a particularly nasty stain or lots of dirt build-up, you can use a pink erasor as an abrasive with rubbing alcohol as the solvent to shine up the contacts before making one last past with a q-tip and alcohol.

When you re-assemble, pay no attention to the order in which you put on the PCBs. They are interchangeable, and the wires can only reach to the correct location for the panel. If you put the sides back on backwards the screws that normally go to the control panel will be at the bottom. Just reverse the panels and you are good to go. You can test on the go by partially re-assembling and plugging in the wires to check your work.

Cleaning The Screen 🔗

Assuming you've followed the instructions on how to disassemble the front panel, you should have a Jubeat that has a protective plastic cover over the screen and nothing else, like so:

There is usually a lot of dirt and dust underneath it so you might want to clean it. To get access to the plexi itself, you need to remove the top decorative panel. There are two screws on the left and two on the right, as pictured:

Once you remove them, the plexi can be simply lifted off to reveal the screen below. Hit it with some Windex and then put the plexi back on. The screen will look something like the following with all panels off. There's still some metal over it, but its accessible enough to clean: